How did you begin working in fashion and when did you decide to create a brand?
Sam: We began working in fashion when we were still in high school- we worked retail jobs in Michigan and Toronto- which kickstarted our interest in fashion and gave us some insight into the possibilities of a career in fashion, and more specifically design. Alex went on to study design and we all went to work for a few other labels though before getting together and starting our own.
Can you tell us something about the collection you have presented us at Pitti?
Alex: The collection we showed this season at Pitti is our third collection and it is a knitwear collection that takes its inspiration from a few different places. The starting points for the collection was the work of two artists, Frank Stella and EA Seguy. We wanted to do something that had a dichotomy to it- specifically something that as a whole felt bold and graphic but also detailed and ornate. Stella and Seguy were the two poles of that, but the collection also evolved out of their own reference points as artists to include a lot of our own ideas about doing something bold and decorative. There are no bug prints or literal Stella motifs- but there are what we hope are subtle nods to the area where their visual language and our own overlaps.
I remember you put water on some clothes can you explain us why?
Matt: We have always been interested in the technological aspect of knitwear- and doing things that aren’t being done elsewhere. So for Fall 13 we developed a fiber treated yarn that is water resistant but still feels amazing and used it for a wide range of accessories and a couple of knit style outerwear pieces.
How did the collection change during the last seasons?
Sam: Each collection there are overarching ideas that we carry through from season to season- but we also are evolving. Spring was a really textural collection- we worked on developing some really complicated stitches that would be sort of unique to menswear. Fall is much more graphic, we focused in on the prints and color palette to do something bold that also felt really high end.
Where does the inspiration for your clothes come from?
Matt: There are three of us and we are always bringing different ideas to the table- but we also definitely share a lot of the same visual reference points. We return a lot to specific artists that we find really inspiring, but we also love to travel and get a lot of ideas from leaving the confines of our Manhattan office.
How much is important something as Pitti for a brand like yours?
Matt: For us, Pitti is extremely important. No other trade show holds the same importance for the entire industry as Pitti does in terms of setting the tone for how the rest of the season will unfold. As a brand that is growing quickly we rely on the exposure of Pitti to introduce us to international buyers and provide us a global platform on which we can show our designs.
Can you tell me something about your costumer? Who does usually buy Orley? And who do you think about when you design? Which are your fashion icons?
Alex: Our customer is someone who wants something that has a point of difference, and is an educated consumer. Our customer is really someone who is looking for quality and design. Not just one or the other. Our icons tend to come more from the art world than the fashion world. We love Robert Rauschenberg and Jasper Johns, Brancussi, Steve McCurry. Our inspirations are diverse, but we think that is important to creating something that is multi-dimensional.
Your definition of elegance?
Alex: The most elegant thing any man can do is have a strong sense of self. We don’t really subscribe to any singular idea of elegance outside of that though.
Plans for the future?
Matt: For Spring 2014 Orley Knitwear is going to become Orley Menswear. We are really excited about launching a full collection. So look for it this summer at Pitti Uomo!
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